Shoe-sewing machine.



I P. CHATEAUNEUF.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIUATIO'ILEVD 0012.15, 1907. I y

Patented OctQ, 1908.

Inf/en aff /tnesses:

;t-urne lthis position, with the result that, in the sub- UNITED sTATEs PATENT OFFICE.

FRANK CHATEAUNEUF, OF HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETT- suon-SEWING manina.

lowing description, connection With the accompany' g drawings, is a specification, like characters on the' rawin'gs representing like arts.

T is invention particularly relates to that class of shoe sewing machines known as chain-stitch machines, in which it is customary to em loy a threadnger which draws the threa `aside between the looper and 'stitch which.has justbeen formed. for the-- purpose' of later giving o f thread directl Y to the needle, as the latter draws back the oop in forming the next stitch.

The inclination at which the thread is drawn directly from the oint Iat which it is fastened to the work to t e looper'is usually approximately the saine as the inclination of the channel groove, so that the thread finger, in taking up thread therebetween, draws the same a ainst the under side or edge of the channe lip or flap, and turns it up or back. As the thread is necessarily drawn against the lip with some force, it is caused, in numerous instances, to cut the 1i4 or pull a section thereof from the sole. Il?, however, no dama fe is done'to the sole, the lip is usually il up to a considerable extent and left in sequent operation of inseam-trimming, the ed e portion of the lip is frequently trimmed olli,l so that when the shoe is finished there is a roove around on the inner side of the sole w lich would otherwise have been completely filled b the lip. 'As the extent to which the lip wil ield under varyin conditions also varies, t e amount of threa given olf by the thread fin er will vary correspondingly, thus effecting t e uniformity of the work.

The object of my invention is to provide means forse holdin the thread, that it will not at any' time be lilrawn against the channel lip by the thread linger, so as to injureor tum up the lip, and vwill cause the same amount ofthread to be given ofl to the needle at all times. l

In this connection, a further object-ofm invention is to provide means for givin o thread to the needle which may also pe orm the function of a take-up and stitch-setting device closely adjacent the work, without in jury to the sole or channel lip.

speciacatin of Letters Patent; `Applicaticn med October 15, 1907. Serial 110.397,467.

Patented Oct. B, 1908.

I accomplish these objects vby the means shown 1n the accompanying drawing, in which,

' Figure 1 is a side elevation of a common form of shoe sewing machine of .the above de` scribed character,'provided with m linvenf tion', only such parts thereof bein'g\s -oW-Ill as are necessary to describe thesarne." Fig. 2 is a front elevation partly' in section of the thread linger operating mechanism. Figs. 3, 4, 5 and 6 aredetail views showing different ism.

In the drawing, ay indicates the frame hav ing the usual cam shaft-b mounted therein, on which the operating cams are mounted. The-needle c is mounted on the Segmente', pivoted at c2, said segment being oscillated means of the link c, lever c" and cam c5. T e looper d ls mounted on a lever d', universally pivoted at d2, said lever being `adapted to be operated b a cam in, the usual inanner. The thread r leads from a tension wheel e over the ull-ofl` f and thence to the looper, said pull-o lever f 2. The thread linger g is mounted on one end of .a shaft g', a link gZ being connectedv to the opposite 'end of said shaft and saidvlink being in turn connected to an o erating lever g which. engages a cam g* on tlie main shaft b. A thread linger h, the operation 'and 'function of which will be hereafter more full described,- is mounted on a sleeve h', which is journaled in the frame and within which the shaft y is journaled, and a linkhz is mounted on the sleeve'g and connected to` an operating lever h", which engages the cam h. The thread-fingers g and le' swing side by side and have their thread-engaging end portions ex tending at right angles therefrom, that of the finger' g being above that of the other, so that "v'ertical plane. The threadengaging end portions are oppositely disposed, and hookshaped, to enable them to hold the thread positionsof the stitch forming mechan-Y being operated by the link j' and they both swing- .in approximately the saine linger h, whichl will term the supplemental thread-finger, moves forwardly or in the op posite direction from thatin: which lingerl g is moved, and engages the thread closely adjacent the point where it leads lroin the stitch. which has just been formed and between said point and the point ol engagement ol the thread by the linger g, said supplemental linger h being moved. forwardly to take up ad ditional thread until it is adjacent the edge ol'A the channel lip and in or adjacent a straight line from the point where the thread leaves the Work from the stitch just formed to the looper. This motion is not linished until alter the needle has entered the Work and laid the loop carried thereby against the same so that in the linal movement of the linger the thread is given a final pull sullicient to set the stitch, the parts assuming the position of Fig. 6 just previous to setting the stitch, and the full line position of Fig. 4 the linger h makes its final movement 'to set the stitch.' When the lingers g and h' have been moved to their extreme positions the thread will be drawn between the work and the looper approximately as shown in Fig. 6. That isthe thread will be drawn by linger h from the stitch just lor'ined in a direction corresponding to the inclination ol: the channel, to a point 'somewhat beyond or adjacent the edge .of the lip, then rearwardly about the main thread linger g and forwardly tothe looper. In this position the thread is held so that it doesnot engage or .bear against the channel lip, as it would it were drawn directly fromthe point where it is fastened to the work to the main finger g. While the lingers g and h may also, during this operation', be'moved sufficiently to pull off thread from the'tension wheel, it" the pullolf device is employed, it. will. be operated during the forward movement of the needle.

As the needle emerges on the upper side 4of the sole, the loo er moves to carry the. thread about the nee le and lay thesaine in the hook thereof, and, at the same time the main thread finger g moves forwardly 'for a part oi its travel to give olf sullicient thread'to the looper to ermitthelatter toperlorin this function, t 1e finger g, and the looper moving .from the full-line position ol Fig. 4 to the dotted line position in the same ligure, the latter position being also shown in Fig. 3. As soon as the threadhas been laid in the needle hook, the loo er'nioves to a )osition in `iront oll the need e and the needle is retracted drawing the loop back..-through the work. As the needle isretractcd, the linger needle and then the supplemental linger h also is moved back to give oli the additionalA thread which it holds. By the time lthe thread lingers will have both become d'isengaged l'roin the thread, as shown in Fig. 5.

. tween the work and By preventing' the main fingerA g' from drawing the thread. against the channel lip the' supplemental llinger h enables the main linger g to take up more thread than would otherwise be possible, for the same movement, and also it enables said main finger to act to pull olf thread from the tension wheel, if' desired, a function which it would other- Wise bezimpracticable to have it perform on account of the strainwhich would be placed on the channel lip. Moreover, it also causes exactly the same amount of thread to be taken up and 'given olf at all times, as it is always held in the same relative position, and is positive and unyielding in its action. The variations due to the unequal yielding of the channel lip are thus obviated.

While the supplemental linger h is preferably moved to take up thread and set the lstitch and to give ofi thread directly to the e needle, it may be made to perform its function ofl preventin the thread from being drawn against the ip if it is held stationary. However, I consider its stitch-setting function of great ,importance as itengages the thread as closely as possible to the stitch which it is setting, thereby causing the stitch to be set more tightly, for the same strain on 1. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a.

needle, a looper and a pair of oppositely acting thread lingers for taking up thread be'- the looper` substantially as described.

2. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a looper, a needle, a main and a supplemental thread linger having oppositely disposed thread engaging faces, said supplemental linger`being disposed to engage the thread ad jacent the path ofthe needle, and means for moving the main finger to take up thread running from the supplemental linger to the looper, substantially as described. y 3. A shoe-sewing -rnachine comprisinga looper', a needle, a lpair of opposit'ely disposed thread lingers and means for moving sa1d lingers in opposite directions to take up thread between the looper and the work and thereafter to give it oll' to the needle, substantially as descnbed. A

4. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a looper, a needle, a pair of thread fingers having oppositeiy disposed thread-.engaging faces about which the thread leading from the work to the looper may be successivelyV 1 passed, means for advancing one of said fingers t'o take u p thread between the other finger and the looper, and subse uently retractlng it to give 0H thread to t e needle,sub

stantiallyas described.

5. A ,shoe-sewing machine comprising a looper, needle, movable towards and from the looper, a threadengaging device disposed at one sideof the path o the needle in rpositionto engage the strand, which leads to theA looper, of a oop which. has been drawn into the work to form a stitch, between the loopcr vthe Work,substantially as described.

6. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a looper, a needle, movable toward and from .the looper, a thread-engaging device disposed adjacent the path of the needle in position to draw the thread leading from the work towards the looper, a finger and means for moving the same away from the looperto take up thread between said engaging device and the looper, and means for thereafter moving-said c'ngagin device towards 'the looper to set the stitc substantially as described.

y 7. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a looper, a needle, movable toward and from the loo er, a thread-engaging device, and

means or moving the same to engage the thread, as it leads from the Work and to draw it towards the looper, and a take-up device movable to take up thread between the looper and said thread engaging device, substantially as described.

8. A chain-stitch shoe-sewing machine comprisin a looper, a needle movable towards am from the looper, a finger disposed to engage the strand, which leads lto the looper, of a loop which has been drawn through the work to form a stitch, between the looper and the oint where said strand enters the work, an a thread engaging'device disposed to engage said strand between said point of entrance to the work and the point at which it is eng ed by said finger, and means for moving said thread-engaging device to take u thread between said points and set the stitcii, substantially as described. 9. A chain-stitch shoe-sewing machine comprising a looer, a needle movable towar s and from t e looper, a finger disposed to engage the strand, which leads'to the looper, of a loop which' has been drawn throngh the workto form a stitch, between the loo er and the point where said strand enters tilj'ie work, a thread engagingdevice disposed to engage said strand adjacent said oint where it leaves the work, and means or moving the same to take up thread between said point and the point at which it is engaged by said nger and to set the stitch, substantially as described.

10. A ,chain-stitch shoe-sewing machine comprising a loo er, a needleV movable towards and from t e looper, afinger disposed to engage the strand which leads to the looper, of a loop which has been drawn through the work to form astitch, between the l'ooper and the point Where said strand enters the work, .a thread enga ing device disposed to engage said strand a 'acent said point Where it eaves the work, an means for moving the same, approximately in the direction of movement of the needle as it advarices, to take up thread between said point and the point at'which it is engaged by said finger and to set the stitch, substantially as described.

`11. A chain-stitch shoe-sewing machine Ato take up slack thread given off by the needle as it advances to form a newstitch, a thread engaging device 'disposedto engage said strand between its said point of entrance to the work and the point at which it is en` gaged by said finger, and means for moving said device in opposition to the movement of said finger to set the preceding stitch, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof, I have signedl my name to this specification, in the l y, presence of two subscribln witnesses. l

F ANK CHATEAUNEUF. Witnesses: i

L. H. HAMMAN, I-l. l. DAVIS. 

